Once upon a time, when I used to eat sweets without counting calories, I remember eating Soan Papri (also spelled as 'Soan Papdi) with relish. It was nowhere near the top of my preferred sugar-laden snacks, but then I have never been one to have favourites. I do remember preferring the fresher, more structured, less thready, big brother of its, Pateesa. Especially one brought from Saharanpur. Pateesa didn't demand to be put in a bowl before being eaten. No spoon was needed. Soan Papri, on the other hand, would disintegrate on the first bite. Some in hand, some on shirt front, a little on the lap, but most on the floor. Mom's lecture would follow. She would conjure a katori and chamach (bowl and spoon) for me and another spoon for scooping out the Soan Papri. You see, much as you can identify the clear cut cuboids while the now-notorious sweet would lie packed in the box, the moment you try to pick one piece, all the pieces seem to merge ...(?) into the other.